Image captured by Eddie Hemphill, a photographer, filmmaker, and creative producer passionate about telling Black stories in ocean spaces. See more at @projectblackintheblue and @eddierhea.

The crash of the waves could be heard even from a mile away. Faint but ever present, the cool sea breeze circled through the air filling your nose, the gentle breeze on the skin, taking over the senses, leaving your eyes to wonder. The ocean is assertive. power, regal, fierce, whilst being all the more gentle and inviting.

My first beach day in San Diego (my second day in California) began on San Onofre. I was informed that there was typically a 30 minute wait to get into the beach- something I paid little attention to until it was reiterated to me while seated behind a wrap-around line length of cars. We pulled up and the wait was over 40 minutes!! For those unfamiliar with San Onofre, that is the typical wait to get into the lot that is right next to the beach.

We were running on a time crunch with our photographer, Eddie. He was there to capture black surfers for the Black Images Collective. Jada Alexander, Daybreak Beach Club founder, surf coach, friend, boss (all around awesome human) was trying to find a quicker way in to fit the crunch and learned about a different entrance about 2 miles down. We drove over there and thought we found the perfect parking spot next to the trail start, key word is THOUGHT.

We walked a little bit into the trail to see where it took us before unloading our belongings, and two 9 foot boards. We quickly learned it was a cliff and over a mile from the beach. After asking around, we learned it was further down and drove towards what we, again keyword, THOUGHT, was the entrance.

We unloaded the surfboards from their secured spot atop the car (which I learned to do that morning). Gathering our bags, the german shepard puppy and our trusted helper, Eddie, we found the most comfortable way to carry the surfboards for our walk.

Now keep in mind, this was a new beach, unexplored by all who ventured with, but determined, we set out. Eddie and I started the journey to find the trail - DID YOU KNOW THAT SURFBOARDS WERE HEAVY?? I did not, I assumed they were light??? Because you know… *float*

Much less than half a mile later, I was tired but trying, we then realized we had walked the opposite direction.

I was rescued by Jada when we turned around and met her to go down the new path we set out for. At this point, it’d been about an hour and a half since we pulled up to the San Onofre entrance.

Finally on the right path we started the trek. Keep in mind we were informed it was a steep hill but it was better after being bulldozed.

Yall, when I say it was so steep, but it was f***ing gorgeous. Like I had to cuss to convey the beauty of the Pacific. Breathtaking, literally, but we unanimously decided it would be good to get a drone shot, but oh technology. After 20 minutes of finagling with the drone (to NO avail) & watching people struggle as they brought all their supplies, boards, bags, back up the hill, we finished our trek down the hill, and all I could think of was “how was we gone get back up?”

BUT

Once on the beach, all the worries and stress of the 2 hour ordeal to get to the water washed away. The leading mission being, the healing nature of the ocean & how we can heal ourselves by deepening our relationship with nature, spoke loud and clear yesterday.

The moment I touched the sand and smelled the sea salt of the Pacific as she stared back at me in all her glory, I felt lighter.

Now when it came time to drag the board out there and try surfing, uhhhh that was different, lmao, but Jada, the tender teaching soul she is, made me feel safe and comforted. She started me slow, assuring me it was easy! Just try to ride a wave on your tummy first! While the rocks under my feet were hard & mounting the board wasn't the easiest, the rush of letting the wave carry you ashore was exhilarating. The fear of falling, or rocks or even getting cut by the board ever present, comes second.

Daybreak is breaking into the field, paving their own path through bridging wellness, environmental education and surfing together! Aiming to end the disparity that Black, brown and all marginalized folks face, which is hyper present, in surf/water culture. While also focusing on mental health and emotional regulation COMBINED with environmental education, it's groundbreaking and much needed. Getting to intern here this summer makes me feel like I won Best Summer Internship. Truly.

When the world seems like its on fire, and everything is burning around us, I find peace in the ocean, in the trees, in the stars, the sand. I want to help bring this feeling to as many children and folks as possible, but just as much, I’m really excited to experience the healing first hand.

Sincerely,

Your fav intern

Diary of a Chunky, Black, New Yorker, Learning to Surf.